Stuck with speaker installation

[Stasis]

I've posted on lgt forum as well but hoping someone here may also be able to help D:

So I've got my speaker set, tweeters fit fine after removing the plastic pins which is great. But I can't figure out how to go about mounting the speakers?


I've removed the old speaker which is all one piece (As you can see my destruction attempt):



But when sitting the new speaker in place while it fits there obviously is no predrilled way to screw it in:



Did you guys drill your door out to suit holding the new speaker, use some sort of adapter or get a spacer?

Even if I do go through and cut the old speaker out the new one is larger than the old one so can't fit inside anyway

Any help is appreciated!

[John]

I've used self tapping metal screws in the past before. Not the best method, but its fast and easy....and it works

[Stasis]

What would you do if you were to do it now John?

[John]

What would you do if you were to do it now John?

Self tapping screws with loctite on them so they don't back out.

Basically the same as drilling a hole....its just the tip of the screw doesthe drilling.

[IGOTASUBARU]

Self tapping screws with loctite on them so they don't back out.

Basically the same as drilling a hole....its just the tip of the screw doesthe drilling.

What he said. ^^^^^

[Zach@TTLM]

A clean way of doing this without drilling your door is going to a lowes or home depot something like they normally have precut plywood (unless you have some laying around). Get a small piece and trace out the shape of the factory speakers. Once this is done cut it out and mark the mounting holes for factory location and the speaker location hole, (dont make the new speaker mounting holes). Drill and Cut this out as well. Mount the speaker to the cut out shape using self taping screws (I normally use a piece of foam with adheasive on one side to like each side of the board and cut out the holes in it too.) This will ensure no vibrations. Once speaker is mounted to this you can now mount it to the door with factory hardware. If you have any questions feel free to contact me.

[cmags]

The spacer/adapter method is usually best. Also be sure that the new speaker clears the glass with the window down. A larger speaker is often deeper and if it sits too deep, you could hit it with the glass when you roll down the windo and possibly damage the speaker or break the glass.

Sent from my Evo Shift using Tapatalk

[John]

Good call on the depth of the speaker. I've run into this before but both the speaker and glass were OK for several months

[Stasis]

I ended up just using self tapping screws after checking that the speaker and window have good clearance which it does at the time it was too late at night to go anywhere to get any wood to make my own jig of sorts but the speaker sits well regardless if any problems arise in the future I can always swap it over to a jig as i've kept all the original screws in a safely labeled jar (I've had to learn the hard way what happens when you don't label things rofl)

Anyway here's the progress post I made on lgt:

I made decent progress last night, despite having to run out and grab a screw box from my old work lol had enough time to finish one door off completely and that includes doing the fur pads!

Speakers in the door, I did remove and reinstall over the plastic sheet if anyone is wondering. This was my test to see how well it held and sat but i'm pleased with it.


The tweeter was a tight fit but it does fit and sounds so much better than the stock tweeter.

Here's a picture of the freq splitter that came with the speaker kits, not too large but not exactly small either


If anyone is wondering what I did wiring wise, what I did was used a kebab stick to feed a single wire through the door jam hose (which involved some rage) and then I moused the actual cables through using that one so all cables are hidden away. The factory door speaker cables I have left untouched, I did the cable soldering on the other side of the plug in cabin so it's all tidy and easily reversed.

I hid the splitter just by the passenger feet area where the cables from the door connect inside, there was enough space in there to hold the splitter easily and I wrapped the splitter in a cut up tshirt to stop the rattle. I had to laugh at the OEM sponge that was squeezed into the space, I wonder if it has a part number


After getting this sorted I decided while the door was apart to change the fur on the window pads as mine has just started getting to that scratchy stage. All of my doors only have 4 pads instead of the 5 in the tutorial thread so jdm must be different >_<

Most of the old pads in the door were solid or furless lol:


After glueing up the new pads and giving the a hair cut as the faux fur I got was far too long fur wise lol:


And door back together xD:


3 doors to go! The rears will be a challenge as I have 0 idea how the rear tweeters are wiring and where the wires for them go seems to be a mystery >_> might leave that one for the weekend

[Stasis]

Just posted another update over on lgt:

Second door done, was an... interesting experience. I see my wiring has been tampered with truly. Theres a clear thin box wired in, part goes to a switch and part has a cut wire. It has a screw switch that goes from 1-5. No clue what it is or if its apart of my crap alarm or not lol will throw up some pics tomorrow.


I had completely forgotten that every damn wire in the car met right infront of where I wanted to put freq filter, but I damn well got it in there and that bastards never coming out hahaha


I took a quick look at the rear tweeters and looks like it's going to be a right pain in my backside to try and change those over ;___________;


Having fun though :P


Also, the driver side window pads were all worn down to the plastic, glad I caught that lol