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Thread: Engine Oil Preferences

  1. Top Of Page | #11
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    Same. Mobil1 performed worse than the cheapest oil O'Reilly carried when I was testing (which, IIRC, was actually O'Reilly's own oil.) If you plan on using a fully synthetic, I can't stress ENEOS enough. It really is amazing.

  2. Top Of Page | #12
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    It seems to be pretty common for all the energy conserving oils to shear down over time due to heat exposure. Countless Blackstone uoa I've seen for Mobil 1 and royal purple show 5w30 shearing down to 5w20 in 3000 miles.

  3. Top Of Page | #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by eekay View Post
    Same. Mobil1 performed worse than the cheapest oil O'Reilly carried when I was testing (which, IIRC, was actually O'Reilly's own oil.) If you plan on using a fully synthetic, I can't stress ENEOS enough. It really is amazing.
    I'd like to see data about this.

  4. Top Of Page | #14
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    I didn't keep any of the data that I had printed. But, you can find pretty much the same data at http://www.bobistheoilguy.com

    P.S. These were non-fully synthetic oils I was testing. Not M1's and O'Reilly's synthetics... I don't even know if O'Reilly has a synthetic. *shrug* The tests were done while breaking in my new EJ257 block. So, I was testing every 150 miles after 1K miles, if that makes sense.

  5. Top Of Page | #15
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    Why wouldn't you test after break in? They make oils that are there to enhance the break in process specifically for the fact that the parts need to wear on each other to work better. This just confuses me... Maybe there is something I'm completely missing here.

  6. Top Of Page | #16
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    The reason I was doing it during break-in was because there was no reason to use synthetic. I'd purchase the cheapest oils I could find and change the oils every 200 miles. After 1K miles though, (which is plenty after break-in) I began testing the oils every 150 during a change for shizzles and gigglez. The break down on most of the more popular brands was disgusting. From what we determined, there's no reason to use a brand-name conventional oil over a super cheap conventional. As far as fully synthetics, the results seem to be somewhat nill. It's really only up to choice. However, some certainly break down a bit quicker than others. ENEOS doesn't even begin to break down until about 8-9K. So, you're going to get a good 15K out of the oil (if you want to max out the oil performance...)

  7. Top Of Page | #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by eekay View Post
    The reason I was doing it during break-in was because there was no reason to use synthetic. I'd purchase the cheapest oils I could find and change the oils every 200 miles. After 1K miles though, (which is plenty after break-in) I began testing the oils every 150 during a change for shizzles and gigglez. The break down on most of the more popular brands was disgusting. From what we determined, there's no reason to use a brand-name conventional oil over a super cheap conventional. As far as fully synthetics, the results seem to be somewhat nill. It's really only up to choice. However, some certainly break down a bit quicker than others. ENEOS doesn't even begin to break down until about 8-9K. So, you're going to get a good 15K out of the oil (if you want to max out the oil performance...)
    ok, that's what I missed. You tested after the 1,000 miles. I thought you were testing in 150 mile intervals during that first 1,000. That was confusing the heck out of me!

  8. Top Of Page | #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by eekay View Post
    So, I was testing every 150 miles after 1K miles, if that makes sense.
    It makes sense now! Yeah. I tried to explain it but didn't know how else to word it... Sorry.

  9. Top Of Page | #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by eekay View Post
    It makes sense now! Yeah. I tried to explain it but didn't know how else to word it... Sorry.
    It's ok, I'm drinking beer. We can blame it all on the beer brain.

  10. Top Of Page | #20
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    Yes. Yes we can.

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