Thanks Thanks:  0
Likes Likes:  0
Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12
Results 11 to 19 of 19

Thread: Modifying N/A Legacy's

  1. Top Of Page | #11
    Basic Member

    User Info Menu

    Thanks for the advice! I've always been skeptical of the lightweight pulleys because of engine balance and what not. I've also heard that because of the boxer design the lightweight pulleys don't cause a problem due to the engine having a better natural balance. Thoughts?

  2. Top Of Page | #12
    Kenny's Avatar

    User Info Menu

    There are definitely engines that you should absolutely never put a lightweight pulley on. Our flat 4's are not one of them, as you are correct, they are completely balanced internally as any imbalance is effectively "canceled out" by the cylinder directly across from it. The mod is definitely worth the mere $100 it costs.

  3. Top Of Page | #13
    Basic Member

    User Info Menu

    Good to hear. $100 for the pulley is definitely one of the cheapest ways to get some power. Going back to your previous comment, what exactly do the delta cam regrinds do? Im having trouble finding information on it you don't need an engineering degree to understand.

  4. Top Of Page | #14
    Kenny's Avatar

    User Info Menu

    I would do the pulley last, honestly, as you're really only going to notice increased engine response and not power. Your first upgrades should be the exhaust and cams, and then maybe throw in an AEM dry flow panel filter (not an oiled filter like a K&N) in the stock intake system.

    When cams are reground, the process just reshapes the came profile to make it much more aggressive. Once installed, a full valve adjustment is necessary. I believe Delta has two (2) or three (3) different "stage" cams available. I would call them, talk to Ken or Scott, and get their help recommending a cam that fits what you want best. You'll want one that doesn't require any sort of "ECU tuning" or "engine management" requirements. I believe the 1500 grind is what you'll end up with.

    A CAI, Delta 1500 cams, phenolic spacers (sit in between the intake manifold and cylinder heads to help avoid heat soak), a 2.5" cat-back, a stock-sized cat pipe with high flow catalytic converters, and a UEL header should yield about 150 HP at the wheels (give or take) with a 5 speed manual transmission.


    You can also do chassis upgrades like motor/trans mounts, bushings, etc.. You'll increase NVH, but you'll make the drive-line more responsive.

    What are you looking to get out of this car? What will you be using it for?

  5. Top Of Page | #15
    Basic Member

    User Info Menu

    The car is my daily driver, so I use it for school and work. Im just looking to get some more power out of the car so its more fun to drive and can drive up mountain passes without any trouble. Thanks for your help. Ill start talking to some exhaust shops and see what kind of prices Id be looking at for the custom cat back. I know borla makes a uel header that fits on the legacy's so Ill also take a look at that.

  6. Top Of Page | #16
    Kenny's Avatar

    User Info Menu

    Pass up the Borla UEL header. It's a waste of money. SpeedyRacer makes a set of stainless steel UEL's for $135 shipped, and they are worth every single penny. I've had a set on all of my cars and we have one on the '96 LGT currently.

    At the moment, the site lists that they are sold out, but you can contact them for a set.

    http://www.speedyracer.com/exhaust-p...ADER-STAINLESS

  7. Top Of Page | #17
    Basic Member

    User Info Menu

    Yeah those SpeedyRacer headers are a much better price than the borla. As far as mufflers are there any you would/wouldnt recommend? I really want to avoid as much highway drone as possible and don't want to sound like a fart can honda at high revs.

  8. Top Of Page | #18
    Kenny's Avatar

    User Info Menu

    The UEL header is what allows you to avoid sounding like a Honda with a fart can. The unequal length runners is what gives a Subaru it's rumble. So, no matter what muffler you use, it will sound pretty good. But, if you want to avoid drone, you'll have to use a quieter muffler, along with a long resonator in the mid pipe. If you're looking for power, but a smooth rumble without any drone and minimal rasp, this is what I'd do:

    - UEL header
    - custom cat pipe with two high flow catalytic converters (2.25" piping)
    - long Vibrant/Magnaflow resonator
    - 2.25" mid pipe
    - 2.5" axle-back

    For the muffler, you'll want something along the lines of a Magnaflow, Vibrant Stret Power, Dynomax, etc...


    If you want an exhaust for all-out power and still have the rumble:

    - UEL header
    - custom cat pipe with one (1) high flow converter (2.25" piping)
    - no resonator
    - 2.5" cat-back (mid pipe-back)

    For the muffler, you'd want to use something along the lines of a Vibrant Race muffler, of the "straight-through" design.


    What the power difference between the two system setups? Well, not much at all really. If it's 10-15 WHP (which I doubt), it's not worth going all out. I'd stick with the setup I listed first.

  9. Top Of Page | #19
    Basic Member

    User Info Menu

    I agree with Kenny. I had a knockoff UEL header on my Legacy and I loved it. the Borla's are known for cracking and splitting in half where the collective is.

Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •