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Thread: got a code p0021 misfiring?

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    got a code p0021 misfiring?

    i got a 175 mile trip home this week for class, think ill make it without problems? what could be the issue? thanks guys
    its an 07 wrx wagon
    just getting near 80k on the odometer
    Last edited by subiesmakemerallyhard; 11-17-2012 at 02:51 PM.

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    Daily Driver Robert Viehweger's Avatar

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    How is it driving? Is it running rough? I believe that code is cam shaft timing, correct? Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but perhaps timing belt skipped? I've heard of folks getting a P0011 code with it also, and it wound up being avcs oil feed to the turbo. I'd definitely have it checked out, to be sure.
    Last edited by Robert Viehweger; 11-17-2012 at 03:07 PM.

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    it idles fine, seems like the turbo is restricted though, i didnt get the p0011 code with it. Is the p0011 code fixed by removing the banjo bolt in the oil feed. I heard there was a screen inside the bolt that becomes clogged starving the turbo. I dont wanna blow up my car, and im due for an oil change this week

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    Daily Driver Robert Viehweger's Avatar

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    I'd definitely check that first if you're only getting the one code. What kind of oil are you running, also?

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    mobil 1 synthetic

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    Daily Driver Robert Viehweger's Avatar

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    I wouldn't recommend that. It has bad break down under high heat. You'll find very few folks running it. Move to something like an Amsoil or any with high minerals. I personally use Valvoline's VR1. Mobile 1 has been proven to be very bad for Subie turbos over the long haul. Even if you don't get on it hard, I don't trust the stuff. Here is a quote directly from Fujiwara..

    IMO the key to a good oil is the mineral content. Oil weight should be chosen based off of bearing clearances, temperatures and power. Brands are brands. Mineral content, viscosity at temperatures and tested shear over time will be the data points that accurately show you the quality of the oil. There are a host of variables that go on inside of an engine. That being said, turbochargers are much more prone to issues from oils than engines (within a certain scope) because a turbo spins about 20x more than your engine. Pick out a high ZDP oil and send off a sample to black stone labs after 3k miles. Then you'll have some real info on how YOUR car likes the oil.

    It all comes down to proper maintenance of the vehicle. Carbon deposit buildup and/or vapor buildup inside of the oil will happen rather quickly with these cars when using conventional fuels. I will go as far as saying i'd choose to change oil more frequently with a lower grade of oil than pay $15 a quart for something that does not require such a short interval. I've even thought of changing my filter in between oil changes.

    That all is my observation from dealing with many different trains of thought. People will argue brand until they're blue in the face. Personally, I've ran amsoil Z-Rod since the day it was done with the break in oil, and it put up with my retarded ***.

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    So im confused, im seeing two things? use lower grade oil and change every 3k, and use AMS. So buy the cheap stuff and change more often or use expensive AMS lol?

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    Daily Driver Robert Viehweger's Avatar

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    Depending on you're willing to do, as long as it has protection for your turbo and won't sheer away under high temp loads. Turbos definitely build a ton of heat. You want an oil that can stand up to it, or you could wind up causing turbo issues. I've always adopted a "better safe than sorry" attitude with mine. I'd rather pay a little more and make sure it's protected fully. But I also run a FP Green/Red hybrid. I know the folks that run the Amsoil swear by it making their car run better. I'm hoping as the day wears on, some of these guys will get in and clarify something. Oil to turbo is oil to turbo.. If you're getting codes related to that, I'd definitely want to know why.

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    Daily Driver Robert Viehweger's Avatar

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    Lower grade doesn't mean cheap oil. He was referring to "not $15 a quart" oil. heh

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    the last time my CEL came on, it was throwing a code, i cant remember which one. But it was telling me there was a problem in the banjo bolt. which told me the oil was bad, an oil change took it away. Ill probably change the oil and see what codes it reads this afternoon since im alil overdue for one.

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